Pesto's
soups are easy, but tricky to thicken
By
LIZ REITER lreiter@courier-journal.com The
Courier-Journal
"Hello,
I was wondering if you could scout up the recipes for cream of
mushroom soup, cream of tomato soup and Florentine sauce from
Pesto's on South Fifth Street. Have a great day!"
Donna Lawrence, by e-mail
These three simple recipes are quite easy to make.
Unfortunately, I've found a strong correlation between recipes that
are easy to make and those that are easy to, well, screw up.
These may be soupier than some people like, and for that reason,
the recipe recommended thickening the sauces and soups with a white
roux. Roux can be a little tricky, so I've provided some information
and tips at the bottom of this column.
Pesto's cream of mushroom
soup
15-ounce can
chicken stock 2 bay leaves 1 rib celery (see note), diced 1
carrot, diced 16 ounces button mushrooms, sliced Salt and
pepper to taste 4 cups heavy cream or half-and-half
Place chicken stock and bay leaves in a stockpot set
over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil. Remove bay leaves. Add
celery, carrot and mushrooms. Add salt and pepper, then heavy cream.
Bring to a boil; lower heat, and simmer 10 minutes. If desired,
thicken soup with a white roux made from ¼ cup flour and ¼ cup
butter. (See below.)
 Cooks can use half-and-half or heavy
whipping cream for Pesto's cream of tomato soup. Half-and-half
is lower in fat grams and calories.
Photo by ARZA
BARNETT | Serves 8 to 10.
Nutritional information per serving made with heavy cream: 363
calories, 36 grams fat, 4 grams protein, 9 grams carbohydrate, 2
grams fiber.
Made with half-and-half: 161 calories, 12 grams fat, 5 grams
protein, 11 grams carbohydrate, 2 grams fiber.
Cream of tomato soup
The restaurant uses fresh tomato sauce for this soup. I've
substituted canned crushed tomatoes.
28-ounce can
crushed tomatoes 15-ounce can crushed tomatoes 1 rib celery,
diced (see note) 1 carrot, diced 1 green pepper, diced 1
tablespoon oregano Salt and pepper to taste 1 quart heavy
whipping cream or half-and-half
Heat tomatoes in a stockpot set over medium-high heat.
When tomatoes bubble, add celery, carrot and green pepper. Cook,
stirring often, until vegetables soften slightly. Lower heat to
medium-low. Stir in oregano, salt and pepper. Fold in heavy whipping
cream. Heat through. Serve immediately.
Serves 10.
Nutritional information per serving when made with heavy
cream: 366 calories, 36 grams fat, 4 grams protein, 11 grams
carbohydrate, 2 grams fiber.
Made with half-and-half: 164 calories, 11 grams fat, 5 grams
protein, 13 grams carbohydrate, 2 grams fiber.
Pesto's Florentine sauce
2 cups heavy
cream Salt and pepper to taste ½ teaspoon nutmeg 1 cup
fresh, washed baby spinach
Heat heavy cream in a saucepan set over low heat. Add
salt and pepper, then nutmeg. Bring to a boil. If desired, thicken
sauce with a white roux made of ¼ cup flour and ¼ cup butter. (See
below.) Lower heat, and add spinach. Serve tossed with pasta of your
choice — long thin noodles, such as linguine, are a good match.
Makes 2 cups, or enough for 1 pound of pasta.
Nutritional information per serving (based on ½-cup serving
with 4 ounces of cooked pasta): 574 calories, 45 grams fat, 8 grams
protein, 36 grams carbohydrate, 2 grams fiber.
Sauce without pasta (4 ½-cup servings): 413 calories, 44 grams
fat, 3 grams protein, 4 grams carbohydrate, trace of fiber.
Note: Most people call a rib of celery a stalk. But
this is incorrect, according to the people who care about this type
of thing. Really, a stalk of celery consists of a bunch of
individual ribs. The ribs are then separated for use in recipes.
Roux: a mixture of flour and a fat, such as oil or butter.
(In the recipes above, I recommend using a white roux made with
butter for flavor.) The two ingredients are mixed into a paste, then
cooked together over low heat, with near-constant stirring, until
the mixture begins to brown. The length of cooking time, and the use
of butter, determine what kind of roux is made. The amount of flour
in proportion to the fat determines the thickness of the final dish.
Once cooked, the roux is stirred into a soup or sauce. This can
be a little tricky, if the cook is not experienced (ask me how I
know ... ). Roux should be allowed to cool for about five minutes
before it is added to the soup or sauce but should not be added when
cold.
Always stir the warm roux, a little at a time, into your mixture.
If you drop a lump in at once, without stirring hard, it will cook
like a dumpling. And I've found that if you add it to a cold
mixture, it won't combine as easily.
But, making things more complicated, if you add it to a mixture
that is too hot, it can cook into small lumps. I like to add it to a
mixture that is steaming but not boiling.
Also, if the roux begins to separate into little white lumps that
won't stir out, it's usually possible to fix it if you lower the
heat and use a whisk to smooth the sauce or soup.
White roux: always uses butter and is cooked the shortest
amount of time. It's done when the mixture just barely begins to
turn light beige and the "glue" smell is gone from the flour. This
usually takes about 8 minutes, but cooking times will vary depending
on the pan used. (I generally use an 8-inch cast-iron skillet.)
Blond roux: is also made with butter, which is melted
before being mixed with flour, and cooked until the mixture is a
pale, golden color. This usually browns in about 20 minutes, but
again cooking times vary.
Brown roux: can be made with any type of fat, but usually
lard or oil is used. The mixture is cooked for up to an hour, until
it turns a deep mahogany color. This rich thickener often adds color
and smoky flavor to Creole and Cajun dishes, especially gumbo.
Want a recipe? Write to "Cook's Corner," The Courier-Journal,
P.O. Box 740031, Louisville, KY 40201-7431. Include your name,
address and phone number (this won't be published). If you want a
recipe from a restaurant, please include the restaurant's address.
Online: Reach Liz at courier-journal.com/liz
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